Watch for the cobwebs as you clamber down the old redgum ladder into the bowels of Bleasdale winery. Duck your head and enter the old domed cellar built in 1892 and gaze around the walls at French and American oak puncheons, hogsheads and barriques brim full of Cabernet and Shiraz.
They are all destined for Bleasdale's super-premium Frank Potts and Generations releases but that's years away.
For now each parcel of each variety is matured separately, with up to 200 different wines all expressing their own individuality based on micro-climate and soil type.
Wander on to the redgum tasting bench where in September every year you'll find senior winemaker Paul Hotker and his winemaking team murmuring as they taste and spit red samples. This exhaustive three-day examination of every parcel of wine, aided by two independent judges, will create the script for each final blend to be assembled.
The outcome is not just about art and romance. Local growers wait anxiously for this time of the year when they know how their fruit will be graded and whether they receive a bonus for quality, rather than tonnes produced.
It's the way it should be, in the pursuit of quality